tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75410215232682689922024-03-06T10:10:07.254+11:00etching birdsnikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-92228740144592367162013-05-23T13:53:00.003+10:002013-05-23T13:54:23.249+10:00The Batad Rice Terraces pt. 1, cropped.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM3eOv4_agpIBjOKklUWH2e7f7WBMVm2kFFu40H2G8OV4Y6PU4raBjWHaIjZoeFNV0jFbB6HY7Jc0NilIxwpy-CCPCfqT7QazOUac1eMXU_LsKlIbNCSskKe31mONaOZOrnMwOZip8vTI/s1600/batad-rice-terraces-12-04-23-n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM3eOv4_agpIBjOKklUWH2e7f7WBMVm2kFFu40H2G8OV4Y6PU4raBjWHaIjZoeFNV0jFbB6HY7Jc0NilIxwpy-CCPCfqT7QazOUac1eMXU_LsKlIbNCSskKe31mONaOZOrnMwOZip8vTI/s640/batad-rice-terraces-12-04-23-n.jpg" width="376" /></a></div>
<br />nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-65179570245041991252013-01-31T00:09:00.000+11:002013-01-31T00:09:44.738+11:00A scene I missed<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnDa0NkIStJRfuM3CicS5GL-I7G98LAd5CrUoFScN8VxflzEwf5DZP-E_IVI1-7DAetbEgkp4xfglxz6KnGFiOYXtP4CmJ19ARvGMMbF8bXnwunkAq856dPHyl2-Yue84Q47x1PFHB88/s1600/LizIssaTin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="294" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFnDa0NkIStJRfuM3CicS5GL-I7G98LAd5CrUoFScN8VxflzEwf5DZP-E_IVI1-7DAetbEgkp4xfglxz6KnGFiOYXtP4CmJ19ARvGMMbF8bXnwunkAq856dPHyl2-Yue84Q47x1PFHB88/s400/LizIssaTin.jpg" /></a></div>nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-24732562971505131072012-08-03T21:34:00.001+10:002013-01-31T00:10:59.818+11:00How to make the couches from Pixar's movie UP!A short photo blog.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXQl0Fj1fFeY_cAz6Qj0lPBL6TVFqhh62r-ny5dc8bGVPEz4IOk_AUIY9aRvvG_h_Zy7U0AhsFNDbCwJmKHAqCtwOQ_nC1I2TNVTSCLxpeSla8lQcCDy1kI9pJGhr6NmZb-p2SIsMTVI/s1600/mel1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="266" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkXQl0Fj1fFeY_cAz6Qj0lPBL6TVFqhh62r-ny5dc8bGVPEz4IOk_AUIY9aRvvG_h_Zy7U0AhsFNDbCwJmKHAqCtwOQ_nC1I2TNVTSCLxpeSla8lQcCDy1kI9pJGhr6NmZb-p2SIsMTVI/s400/mel1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.facebook.com/figurinesbyniki">Figurines by Niki</a>nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-88610201000552268062012-05-15T18:17:00.001+10:002012-05-15T18:23:20.204+10:00ExcavatorI made this figurine for a birthday cake somewhere in Mt Isa, QLD. Mt Isa is a big mining town and this is a small mining figurine :) Also included some progress shots for anyone interested in how it came together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN63Wc6O9nRGONehOWFL_Q9NcbzbUKbeAoOhPXhT8TilSIVmteMDn2_tcxdbESIsDijJWZsFARcSAJ-W4K4RDWB-U_hyK4yx9UMeQY-IdHnx-0Jk_0Dh0SDuLDX01nfKMNRAgwPCtVn8/s1600/ExcavatorProcessN.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="1190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN63Wc6O9nRGONehOWFL_Q9NcbzbUKbeAoOhPXhT8TilSIVmteMDn2_tcxdbESIsDijJWZsFARcSAJ-W4K4RDWB-U_hyK4yx9UMeQY-IdHnx-0Jk_0Dh0SDuLDX01nfKMNRAgwPCtVn8/s1600/ExcavatorProcessN.jpg" width="384" /></a></div><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVaRrKQzHAlXBlrxbOmccwhhhXaJOoMaI1ntFYZ1PGzFVe2jgHD3EwETH_9ywHPWy8f0wHjUwkmj7J5ELUCo47sLFY6CrJt0H3CGXoVQuRl19vvJTZugzEII4I7zj7pnz2zoaSraqNYQ/s1600/1200510excavatorn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVaRrKQzHAlXBlrxbOmccwhhhXaJOoMaI1ntFYZ1PGzFVe2jgHD3EwETH_9ywHPWy8f0wHjUwkmj7J5ELUCo47sLFY6CrJt0H3CGXoVQuRl19vvJTZugzEII4I7zj7pnz2zoaSraqNYQ/s400/1200510excavatorn.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Also! Find me on <a href="http://www.facebook.com/figurinesbyniki">facebook</a>.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-26453432700309670322012-03-30T02:30:00.010+11:002013-05-23T13:55:38.312+10:00All glue guns are born equal, right?WRONG! Different glue guns are absolutely <span style="font-style: italic;">not</span> equal, despite the fact that all they do is melt glue and push it forward. You'd think this was an easy enough task and what could possibly go wrong if you get the cheapest one from the supermarket?<br />
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These are things that don't go wrong when you invest in a better glue gun:<br />
• The glue and tip don't heat up above the necessary temperature and so you are less likely to burn yourself,<br />
• the glue cuts off more cleanly instead of creating webs all over the place like translucent non-cheesy mozarella,<br />
• there is no strange burning smell,<br />
• the trigger actually pushes the glue forward instead of just vaguely attempting it.<br />
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There you have it. The advantages of paying a bit more for a decent glue gun.<br />
nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-28375577266921576872011-06-28T00:30:00.001+10:002011-06-28T00:30:55.358+10:00Skies<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/110628SkiesBlogger.jpg" border="0" />nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-54343378488342900652011-06-18T18:57:00.001+10:002011-06-18T19:27:52.211+10:00hooray! for we are<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/ForWeAreHipsterBlogger.jpg" />nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-22718581749272554292011-06-08T23:51:00.003+10:002011-06-08T23:55:13.788+10:00Escape TogetherGuess I should post something in case my one million viewers and I myself start disbelieving that I will actually follow through with the 'resolution' below.<br /><br /><center><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/WellEscapeTogetherBlogger.jpg" border="0" /></center>nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-43363248495188329342011-06-05T01:20:00.011+10:002011-11-18T00:24:09.035+11:00The Return of the SproutmonsterSince we got back from Europe I've been itching to make art and swimming in pools of ideas but this has been conflicting with massive doses of cynicism because I've been seeing the trends in contemporary commercial art and the majority of it is bullshit. All people want to buy are pictures of vintage birds with antlers on a white background and so that is what all the market stall holders are making. I've been doing birds with antlers on white backgrounds since I was in highschool seven years ago but apparently it's trendy now so it's become totally devoid of charm or meaning and makes people go 'awwww' then they forget about it thirty seconds later.<br /><br />I've decided to try and go back to 2008, because that is when I made art most often, and when I freely combined different media; something which I have never done before or since. It was short like my attention span. The best part was that it was meaningless and disassociated and only for myself.<br /><br />It was when I was doing <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nniki/sets/72157626882973126/">this stuff</a>. There will now be more. Stay tuned.<br /><br /><center><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3073/2814525080_8ebb0a7e9f.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 371px; height: 500px;" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3073/2814525080_8ebb0a7e9f.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a></center><br />There will probably still be birds in it.<br /><br />I might move to tumblr...nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-83863994498308500232011-06-01T00:34:00.003+10:002011-06-01T00:43:41.766+10:00HerbsI made a new small collection of prints. They are cleaner and more intricately drawn than before. I present to you: the herbs series!<br /><br /><center><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/Basil6x8N.jpg"><br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/Thyme6x8N.jpg"><br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/Parsley6x8N.jpg"><br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/Oregano6x8N.jpg"><br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/Coriander6x8N.jpg"></center><br />If you're of the buying persuasion, you <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/pabili?section_id=8130701">may do so here</a>.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-31317818250767218602011-05-31T23:53:00.008+10:002013-01-31T00:16:15.663+11:00Degreasing without ammoniaA short tutorial cross posted from <a href="http://printsy.blogspot.com/">printsy</a>.<br /><br /><b>How to degrease your plate</b><br /><br />Degreasing your etching plate is important when applying a ground, aquatint, or sugarlift because it allows the medium to stick to the plate. This is traditionally done with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammonia" target="_blank">ammonia</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_hypochlorite" target="_blank">whiting</a>.<br /><br />If you don't like the smell of ammonia (it is like rotten fish and pee), what works equally well is household grade powder cleanser like <a href="http://www.colgate.com/app/Colgate/US/HC/Products/HouseholdCleaners/Ajax.cvsp" target="_blank">Ajax</a> and soy sauce. You can actually use powder cleanser by itself, but it takes three times as much wiping effort.<br /><br /><center><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSX66a_cJ7Dngppbyh3u8mP3G4rPvaVHGlIkjBDVuRbHcvvhy2LMZtORdlGu9WOAV5SvLjkC-egIzzNwktBJMt3trivz5XQamzanxei4XXPI_SfuvwmtlVaxVBvWhCZzyPpT0STfN-XIU/s1600/DSC_3258+n.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSX66a_cJ7Dngppbyh3u8mP3G4rPvaVHGlIkjBDVuRbHcvvhy2LMZtORdlGu9WOAV5SvLjkC-egIzzNwktBJMt3trivz5XQamzanxei4XXPI_SfuvwmtlVaxVBvWhCZzyPpT0STfN-XIU/s400/DSC_3258+n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5612878917543825602" /></a></center><br />You apply it in the same way. Add powder, add soy sauce, and wipe with a clean, grease free rag. Rinse with water.<br /><br /><center><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxKANvjlhSk2zL8tL57zZlAKe0ie6hl6Mbd9y_SKdyAHPkFx9WV_YVcyZemTgly0LGeHFKQpmsCvskkSqZXa0tsaicSzPtDibN2bI599p4ZJBfhtcvvThEqSqEhkxKHu4B9VgoCBkY-Gk/s1600/DSC_3260+n.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 211px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxKANvjlhSk2zL8tL57zZlAKe0ie6hl6Mbd9y_SKdyAHPkFx9WV_YVcyZemTgly0LGeHFKQpmsCvskkSqZXa0tsaicSzPtDibN2bI599p4ZJBfhtcvvThEqSqEhkxKHu4B9VgoCBkY-Gk/s400/DSC_3260+n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5612879060155433970" /></a></center><br />You'll know when your plate is degreased because the water should stick to the entire plate instead of blobbing up.<br /><br /><center><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCJOHsdJpGh_OskNcLV12gvxJ9kb1ufzngHe1xeMYdGR3TTEpi_DEmCjCXM66RI4ugbZ3QvVcONLBsyMH__xxbqckpy584RKrDUuQtNU6TzsuOkEmqLJktKXY5f7DgWDxPxDvIiLxJlIk/s1600/greasy+vs+degreased.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 251px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCJOHsdJpGh_OskNcLV12gvxJ9kb1ufzngHe1xeMYdGR3TTEpi_DEmCjCXM66RI4ugbZ3QvVcONLBsyMH__xxbqckpy584RKrDUuQtNU6TzsuOkEmqLJktKXY5f7DgWDxPxDvIiLxJlIk/s400/greasy+vs+degreased.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5612879339020137666" /></a></center><br />Now don't touch it with your oily fingers. The end!<br /><br />nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-60889065049181560322011-04-24T22:29:00.005+10:002011-06-01T00:04:48.453+10:00A word of warning about copper sulfate etchantLast year I posted <a href="http://etchingbirds.blogspot.com/2010/04/safe-etching-part-1-aluminum.html">the recipe for an aluminium and zinc etchant made from copper sulfate</a>. I forgot to add something very important.<br /><br />Before you etch anything in this, stick an unprotected piece of aluminium into it, about 1x3 inches large. Leave it there for 5-10 minutes. This will take the edge off it so it isn't so strong. If you don't do this, the first plate you etch may become a complete mess. It will bite your needlepoint lines into lines 2mm wide, and it will even bite holes through areas protected by the ground.<br /><br />Alternatively, when etching your first plate, just make sure to check it every 3-5 minutes to make sure it isn't being ravaged.<br /><br />It isn't nitric acid, but it is <i>extremely</i> strong.<br /><br />I forgot to do this just now and have suffered the printmaking equivalent of my computer crashing after drawing something on illustrator for 4 hours and not saving it.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-31586985126320251022011-04-17T23:50:00.006+10:002011-04-18T00:04:47.313+10:00Removing groundAs an alternative to turpentine / methylated spirits for removing grounds, some block outs, and adhesives in general, I use a citrus based solvent called <a href="http://www.rcr.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=8&Itemid=147" target="_blank">De-Solv-it</a>. It comes in a spray container. You spray it on (outside or in a well ventilated area), leave it a minute, and wipe it off with a dry rag and no effort.<br /><br />This is an Australian made product and you can get it at most hardware shops. If you live elsewhere around the world, just ask for a citrus based solvent. They work well, are less carcinogenic, are less likely to kill the nerve cells in the tips of your fingers, and don't stink as much!nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-50403070624247185262011-01-12T17:32:00.006+11:002011-01-12T18:03:15.369+11:00Copper plate fail 1My first attempt at copper plate was a mild success! Until I turned it into a mild failure, but I learned some stuff and am extremely excited about the fineness of the lines I can achieve, and with the effects of blocking out and open biting.<br /><br />My first copper plate proof shows the teeny tiny fine lines which your computer monitor won't render because monitors have bad resolution:<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/Whale1n.jpg" /><br /><br />Yes it's a whale.<br /><br />And this is what it looks like now.<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/Whale2n.jpg" /><br /><br />I don't get what's going on in it either. The sky looks a million more times more turbulent than I wanted it (not to mention the horrible disregard and disrespect for the play between light and dark), but the texture is kind of interesting. I also totally wrecked the intricate lines on the flowers at the bottom left.<br /><br />I've redrawn this image on a new plate entirely and will be etching it when I get back to the studio, which won't be til April, and will attempt to do it a lot more carefully and thoughtfully. Meanwhile I'm going away for two months starting from 26 January, so there will be no posts on this blog until we get back. Not that you've learned to expect frequent posts on this thing!<br /><br />I have <a href="http://2lpp.blogspot.com/">a travel blog which I share with Chris</a>, but am not sure whether we'll post anything on it while we're away.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-34801490267592642992011-01-07T10:19:00.008+11:002011-01-21T02:07:33.290+11:00A pint of that red stuffOne of the problems with etching aluminium in copper sulfate is the buildup of Red Stuff (technical name unknown) that occurs in the etched lines. Feathering doesn't always relieve this. I've gone so far as to scrub the plate with one of those rough sponges you use when washing cookware in an attempt to remove it. This is not recommended because it may scratch the plate and doesn't totally work anyway. Definitely don't do it with the ground still on, because it will scratch your ground. The Red Stuff must be removed because it stops the ink from going into the lines and you end up with the Most Horrible Broken Lines Ever.<br /><br />Here's a picture of the Red Stuff on the plate and a picture of the resulting proof, to show you how troublesome the Red Stuff can be.<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/AluminumRedDeposit1n.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/AluminumRedDeposit2n.jpg" /><br /><br />Sometimes the only way to remove the Red Stuff is to go over the lines lightly with your etching needle to dig them out. This is a pain in the ass to do so if you've found alternative methods, let me know.<br /><br />This is what the plate looks like after the Red stuff has been removed.<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/AluminumRedDeposit3n.jpg" /><br /><br />And the resulting print, lines intact. (Ignore the colour. I can't find a proof which I haven't already painted)<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/AluminumRedDeposit4n.jpg" /><br /><br />And to promote myself, here is what the actual artwork looks like as a whole. It is part of <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/pabili" target="_blank">my Bahay Kubo series, which you may view on Etsy.</a> Bataw is Hyacinth bean in English, and Lablab purpureus in Science :)<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/AluminumRedDeposit5n.jpg" /><br /><br />I won't be using aluminium for a while because I've just bought a nice big pile of copper plates <a href="http://www.e-artstore.net/printmaking_head.html">(from Neil Wallace Printmaking Supplies, Melbourne)</a> and am (temporarily?) switching to etching copper with ferric chloride. The next post will show you my semi-horrible first attempt at etching a copper plate.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-33008934389579701772011-01-05T14:28:00.002+11:002011-01-05T14:31:00.944+11:00Queenstown, TasmaniaHere's the finished version of the plate below.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nniki/4190120838/" title="091216 Queenstown (5)n by stickwriter, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2550/4190120838_e51137c45f.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="091216 Queenstown (5)n" /></a>nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-43626882967359132692010-11-28T11:45:00.006+11:002011-01-12T18:00:24.309+11:00Smoking the plate<span style="font-style:italic;">Smoking the plate</span> is an extra process you can add when preparing your plate for etching. You only do it when using hard ground, and can do it with aluminum, zinc, or copper plate.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">What is "Smoking the plate"?</span><br />It is darkening the surface of the hard ground-covered-plate using smoke from a flame.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Why smoke the plate?</span><br />This isn't a necessary part of the etching process but it can help in two ways. (1) The much darker surface means you can very easily see the lines you have drawn into the ground, and (2) It can serve to cover up any small holes you have left in the ground, if for some reason you didn't roll it on very well.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">And how?</span><br />After applying the hard ground, take a pair of pliers with which to hold onto the plate. You need this because it'll heat up and you'll burn your hands otherwise. Hold it upside down (hard ground side down) over a flame and move it around.<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/smoke1.jpg" /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Be careful:</span><br />• NOT to hold it in any one spot for too long.<br />• NOT to scratch the plate with the pliers. If you take some ground off, just cover it with bitumen after you're finished drawing.<br /><br />It tends to work better if you have lots of little candles (unlike what I have in the photo), and light a few of them to get a wider flame.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A smoked plate:</span><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/smoke2.jpg" /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A drawing on a smoked plate:</span><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/smoke3.jpg" />nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-63032874099554160582010-04-07T22:06:00.008+10:002011-01-12T18:00:32.525+11:00Hard groundThe ingredients you need to make a hard ground is:<br /><br />2 parts (8.5tbsp) lump/egyptian asphaltum<br />2 parts (5tbsp) beeswax (white is purer but yellow works too)<br />1 part (3tbsp) rosin<br /><br />An ingredients list isn't quite enough to stir up a decent hard ground. You need to know how to make it, too. I have never actually tried this and am mainly posting this as a future reminder to myself. There appears to be a decent recipe/method for hard ground in <a href="http://books.google.com.au/books?id=m2OZpt9wI2kC&pg=PA12&lpg=PA12&dq=hard+ground+formula&source=bl&ots=Cg0lpMcASI&sig=-Le-R7KOu6h-udpQMv2RGzuUhGI&hl=en&ei=Q2C8S4vJOMuTkAWM9d3lBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=hard%20ground%20formula&f=false" target="_blank">Practical guide to etching and other intaglio printmaking techniques By Manly Banister</a>, starting around page 11.<br /><br />Do you have any tips?nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-14523959885847308202010-04-07T21:16:00.012+10:002011-01-14T20:44:44.520+11:00Printmaking in SydneyHere is a list of the printmaking classes in Sydney, Australia, which are not part of TAFE/university courses. If you know of any others, please post them in the comments box and I will add them to the list.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Warringah Printmakers Studio</span><br />• Offers an open access studio for members who have gone through a proficiency check<br />• Holds weekly classes in of intaglio, relief, woodblock, waterless lithography and more. Various days and times to choose from.<br />• Holds a few masterclasses throughout the year<br />• Has at least one annual exhibition for members, with opportunities for more<br />• Promotes safe printmaking techniques<br />• 1 term is 9 weeks. Cost varies according to classes taken.<br /><a href="http://www.printstudio.org.au/" target="_blank">www.printstudio.org.au</a><br />343 Condamine Street, Manly Vale. Tel: (02) 9949 2325<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Hazelhurst Gallery</span><br />• Holds 2 weekly printmaking classes<br />• One or two masterclasses during the year<br />• 1 term is 10 weeks, $236<br /><a href="http://www.hazelhurst.com.au/ssc/hazel.nsf/HeadingPagesDisplay/Arts+CentrePrintmaking?OpenDocument" target="_blank">www.hazelhurst.com.au/ssc/hazel.nsf/</a><br />782 Kingsway St, Gymea. Tel: (02) 8536 5700<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Waverly Woolahra Art School</span><br />• Various types of intaglio and relief printmaking<br />• 1 term is 9 weeks, $272<br /><a href="http://www.wwac.org.au/courses_printmaking.php">www.wwac.org.au/index.php</a><br />138 Bondi Road, Bondi. Tel: (02) 9387 2461<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Pine Street Creative Arts Centre</span><br />• Weekly classes, from beginners to advanced<br />• 1 term is 9 weeks, $235<br /><a href="http://www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/pinestreet/">www.pinestreet.com.au</a><br />64 Pine Street, Chippendale Tel: (02) 9245 1503<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">College of Fine Arts</span><br />• Excellent facilities and teachers<br />• Probably won't run any short courses during 2010 and early 2011 because they are undergoing major refurbishment<br /><a href="http://www.cofa.unsw.edu.au/futurestudents/continuingeducation/shortcourses/">http://www.cofa.unsw.edu.au</a><br />Corner of Oxford Street and Greens Road, Paddington<br /><br />Info is correct as of April 2010.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-74226084487531248362010-04-01T14:21:00.007+11:002011-06-01T00:13:15.685+10:00Bahay Kubo series: part 1At the beginning of the year I started making what is to be 18 plates, each depicting a vegetable from the traditional Filipino song Bahay Kubo. I have not done any research into existing artwork based on this and fully accept that such inspiration could potentially already be overused, however I persisted with the idea thinking that since I was relatively new to aluminum etching, it would act as a good crash course wherein I could make lots of plates, lots of prints, lots of mistakes, and hopefully gain some level of proficiency.<br /><br />***<br /><br />UPDATE:<br />This series is <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/pabili?section_id=6891596" target="_blank">now finished</a>.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-55313060030223501302010-04-01T13:47:00.018+11:002011-04-24T22:38:09.967+10:00Safe etching part 1: aluminumFinishing my Design degree at COFA last year brought with it the reality that I was no longer entitled to use their superior printmaking facilities and staff. Since then I have enrolled in a weekly class at the only open studio I could find in Sydney, which is in Manly Vale, 80 minutes public transport away from where I live.<br /><br />This studio is a 'safe' studio. This means they universally encourage people to use photopolymer (solar) plates which don't use anything more toxic in its etching process than UV rays, water, and photocopying toner; that there is a distinct lack of turps and meth; and that if you must etch metal, you won't find any nitric acid for it.<br /><br />There are substitutes for this. To clean the ink, we use vegetable oil. Not as fast and efficient, but definitely better for inhaling (oh, and it's edible). For etching zinc we use a mixture of copper sulfate and water. <br /><br />So far I've worked mostly with aluminum plates, primarily because they are cheap. A zinc plate of the same size generally costs 10 times as much. There is a relatively safe etchant you can mix up at home for aluminum. I wouldn't recommend sticking your fingers in it or drinking it, but at the very least it is unlikely you'll pick up any thrid degree burns from it.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br />The recipe for aluminum plate etchant:</span><br />2 litres cold water<br />1 cup copper sulfate<br />1/2 cup salt<br />1 tbsp sodium bisulfate<br /><br />You can buy copper sulfate from gardening stores (it's blue) and sodium bisulfate can be found in some powdered toilet cleaners (harpic in Australia).<br /><br />Shake up the lot in a large container and pour it into a plastic tray. Photographic chemical trays work well. And there you have your etchant!<br /><br /><a href="http://etchingbirds.blogspot.com/2011/04/word-of-warning-about-copper-sulfate.html">This post is horribly incomplete and has therefore been updated here.</a><br /><br />Here is <a href="http://homepage.usask.ca/~nis715/salt.html">an excellent, in depth article about copper sulfate etching, by Nik Semenoff</a>.nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7541021523268268992.post-10434172567288378512010-02-16T00:31:00.008+11:002011-01-12T18:00:17.590+11:00Forgetting paintI keep forgetting how much I love painting when it turns out well.<br /><br />I don't deal with hardship and hard work and trouble very well and in fact I like to not deal with it at all. If something is difficult I tend to give up unless I have fear hanging over me that someone will give me an even more difficult time of it if I give up (eg tutors, bosses). I grew up spoiled.<br /><br />Instead of breaking up with painting for months at a time every time a difficult level comes up I should just get over it or keep trying to fix it or change tactics; do ANYTHING as long as the breaking up doesn't happen. It is so worth it.<br /><br />I just wish someone would pay me to do this. Dignity aside, money <span style="font-style:italic;">is</span> frequently an effective creative motivator.<br /><br /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/stickwriter/mist/20100219Denise5na.jpg" alt="watercolour portrait of little girl">nikihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06774174090690102903noreply@blogger.com0